The Ajanta Caves

“Whoever studies the art of China and Japan, at whatever time he begins, starts on a long road, which will lead him ultimately to Ajanta.” –Laurence Binyon

The Ajanta Caves by Benoy Behl
The Ajanta Caves by Benoy Behl

In 1819, a group of British tiger hunters in India discovered a lost treasure. On a hairpin turn of the Waghur River in the state of Maharastra, they found a cave entrance shrouded in undergrowth. It turned out to be a large temple complex carved out of the cliff face overlooking the river below. The Ajanta Caves, now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes 29 temple caves that contain exquisite examples of Buddhist sculpture and painting. The work dates from the 2nd century to the 7th century C.E. and influenced Buddhist imagery throughout Asia.  The rich paintings employed techniques that wouldn’t be found in Europe for another thousand years. The complex functioned as a monastery with worship, study, education, and practice conducted by monks who lived there. The site was visited at its height by the renowned Chinese Buddhist pilgrim, Xuanzang, on his ten-thousand mile quest for scripture in India during the 8th century. He is credited with bringing the Heart Sutra to China.

Ajanta Caves
Ajanta Caves (photo by Shaikh Munir, Creative Commons)

Benoy Behl learned of the caves in the early 1990s. A photographer with a particular affinity for low-light photography, he obtained special permission to document the site. Ironically, the authorities did not believe his effort would bear fruit. Two expeditions to the caves resulted in astounding images that liberated the original works from the remote dark caves. His photograhy revealed the full palate of the paintings that were often not visible to modern visitors as the caves are dimly lit to preserve the ancient artworks. The photographs became a highly popular traveling museum exhibit throughout India, China, and Japan. The director of the Archeological Society of India told Behl, “You have truly conquered the darkness.” Fitting words for the achievement of bringing these Buddhist masterpieces into the light.

Imagery in the caves included Buddhas, bodhisattvas, monks, elephants, and lotuses. Many illustrate stories from the Jataka tales, which tell of previous lives of the Buddha. Now in a book, The Ajanta Caves, Behl’s photography and his excellent text on the discovery, history, and significance of the site are published by Thames and Hudson. An inscription from the 5th century in one of the caves reads:

“May this Hall, out of affection…cause the attainment of well-being for good people as long as the sun dispels darkness by its rays!”

Padmapani Bodhisattva
Padmapani, a.k.a, Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. Was this the image Xuanzhang had in mind when he chanted the Heart Sutra?

 

Lotus from ceiling panel
Lotus from ceiling panel

 

Consort of Padmapani
Consort of Padmapani

 

Vajrapani Bodhisattva
Vajrapani Bodhisattva

 

Water buffalo
Water buffalo

 

Elephant
Elephant

 

Buddha giving teachings
Buddha giving teachings